Folded-Hem Socks on a Flatbed Knitting Machine: Lace Yarn at Tension 3

Yarn & Gauge

I am using lace cashmere yarn plied with a strand of silk for better strength and stability.

Knitting machine: KnitKing Compuknit IV
Yarn Tension: 3
Stitches per inch: 9.5 (38 stitches in 4″)
Rows per inch: 14 (56 rows in 4″)

Foot Measurements

Before we start, here are the foot measurements we’ll be working with:

Foot length: 9.5”
Distance from ankle bone to big toe joint: 6.5”
Ankle circumference: 8” at the narrowest point

Since socks need to fit snugly, the pattern includes negative ease, meaning the sock is knitted slightly smaller than the foot. Wool’s natural elasticity ensures a comfortable stretch.

Creating a Snug Fit

The cuff is designed to fit securely around the ankle to prevent slipping.
The ankle circumference with negative ease is 7”, ensuring a snug but comfortable fit.
Use yarn tension 3 for the cuff portion of the sock.

Step 1: Knitting the Folded Hem on the Ankle

Cast on 66 stitches with waste yarn using open cast on method.
Knit a few rows.
Remove the waste yarn from the carriage.
Insert the working yarn and knit 60 rows on tension 3.
Fold the hem to create a smooth edge.

Step 2: Shaping the Ankle to Heel Band

The bridge of the foot is the widest part, so we need to increase number of stitches for a comfortable fit.

Reset row count to 0 (RC=0);
Keep tension at 3 and knit 4 rows;
RC=4: increase 2 stitches, one one each end, and knit 4 rows;
RC=8: increase 2 stitches and knit 4 rows;
RC=12: increase 2 stitches and knit 4 rows;
RC-16: increase 2 stitches and knit 4 rows;
RC-20: increase 2 stitches and knit 3 rows;
In total, you have knitted 23 rows with 10 increases.

Now we have a total of 76 stitches (38 needles on each side of zero).

Step 3: Removing Needles from Each Side of the Pattern

With the cartridge on the left, move 19 outermost needles on the right to hold position (E). Switch the holding cam lever to H (hold) position.
Knit row 24. The yarn tail is now at the right end of the working needles.
Remove the working yarn from the cartridge. Move all needles left of the 19 needles to holding position (E). Move the 19 needle on the right from position E to working position.
Insert waste yarn in the cartridge. Knit a few rows with the waste yarn.
Cut the waste yarn. Move the cartridge to the left. The 19 stitches on the right should fall off the needles.
Move the 19 needles on the right to the neutral position so that they are not engaged in the knitting.
Move 19 outermost needles on the left to the working position. Charge the cartridge with the waste yarn and knit a few rows ending with the cartridge on the left.
Cut off the waste yarn and remove it from the cartridge.
Move the empty cartridge from left to right. Because the cam lever is in H position, the outermost 19 needles on the left should be free from the knitting. The 38 needles in the center should stay untouched because they are in hold position.
Move the 19 needles on the left to the neutral position.
Thread the cartridge with the working yarn.
Switch the cam lever to N (normal) working position. Now, we need to knit 90 rows for the dorsal portion of the foot before the toe box. However, I we are going to knit 90-12=78 rows. The remaining 12 rows will be knitted with a stronger toe reinforcement yarn.

Step 4: Knitting the Bridge of the Foot (Dorsal Foot)

Reset your row counter to zero.
All needles are in working position.
- You can keep the cam lever in H position. All needles will be knitted because they are in working position.
Knit 8 rows
RC=8: Decrease 2 stitches (one on each side) and knit 8 rows;
RC=16: Decrease 2 stitches and knit 8 rows;
RC=24: Decrease 2 stitches and knit 8 rows;
RC=32: Decrease 2 stitches.
RC-40: Decrease 2 stitches.
- Now, you have 28 stitches (33 on each side).
Continue knitting without decreases until the row counter reaches 60 rows.

This section covers the distance from the ankle bone to the toe box with negative ease, ensuring a snug fit.

Step 4: Shaping the Toe Box

The toe box is knitted similarly to the heel:

Switch from working yarn to reinforcement yarn and knit 12 rows.
Move the outermost left-side needle to E position.
Make sure the cam lever is in H position.
Work short rows until 18 stitches are removed (9 on each side).
Begin increasing, moving one needle at a time back to the working position until all needles are in working position

Step 5: Knitting the Bottom (Plantar) Part of the Foot

Switch row count to zero.
Use “Sew as you Go” method for the first 12 rows to finish the toe box with the reinforcement yarn.
Switch yarns from reinforcement yarn to the main working yarn (cashmere/silk).
Knit 66 rows (78-12) using “Sew as you Go” technique.

Step 6: Knitting the Heel with Short Rows

To shape the heel:

Reset the row counter to 0 and switch to reinforcement yarn.
RC=0: Knit 6 rows. Continue with “sew as you go” technique.
RC=6: Knit short rows 18 times (reducing by 12 needles on each side.
Set the cam lever to H position (this ensures only the working needles are knitted).
RC=30: Knit 6 rows with reinforcement yarn using the “sew as you go” method.Attach claw weights to stretch the curled fabric. Otherwise, the stitches can easily fall off the needles.You don’t need to wrap the yarn around the needle this time.
The heel should now have a natural curve.

Step 6: Stitching the Sock

Now it’s time to seam the sock together:

Use Kitchener stitch for the heel for an invisible finish.
Use mattress stitch to seam up the ankle seam in the back, including the folded hem.

Since the socks are knitted flat on a machine, they need to be stitched together. To create a mirror image for each foot:

Ensure the seam runs along the inside of the foot for a polished look.
Adjust your starting position so the left and right socks are symmetrical.
When knitting short rows, work the increases and decreases on the right side of zero for the left foot and left side of zero for the right foot.

Final Thoughts

Congratulations! You’ve just knitted a beautifully crafted wool sock with a perfect fit. This technique ensures warmth, comfort, and a professional finish. Happy machine knitting!