Introduction: The Benefits of Machine Knitting Socks
Machine knitting offers a fantastic way to create folded-hem socks with speed, precision, and professional-quality results. Unlike hand knitting, a knitting machine allows you to quickly correct mistakes or modify patterns on the fly, saving valuable time. This flexibility also means you can experiment with different yarns and combinations without worrying about long hours of rework. Whether you’re making socks for yourself or as gifts, machine knitting ensures a consistent, snug fit with beautiful, polished finishes in a fraction of the time.
Yarn & Gauge
For this project, we’re using lace wool yarn with the following gauge:
Knitting machine: KnitKing Compuknit IV
Yarn Tension: 7
Stitches per inch: 8
Rows per inch: 11
Foot Measurements
Before we start, here are the foot measurements we’ll be working with:
Foot length: 9.5”
Distance from ankle bone to big toe joint: 6.5”
Ankle circumference: 8” at the narrowest point
Since socks need to fit snugly, the pattern includes negative ease, meaning the sock is knitted slightly smaller than the foot. Wool’s natural elasticity ensures a comfortable stretch.
Creating a Snug Fit
The cuff is designed to fit securely around the ankle to prevent slipping.
The ankle circumference with negative ease is 6.75”, ensuring a snug but comfortable fit.
Use yarn tension 7 for the cuff portion of the sock.
Step 1: Knitting the Folded Hem on the Ankle
Cast on 62 stitches using waste yarn using open cast on method.
Knit about two inches.
Remove the waste yarn from the carriage.
Insert the working yarn and knit 56 rows at tension 7.
Fold the hem to create a smooth edge.
Step 2: Shaping the Ankle to Heel Band
The bridge of the foot is the widest part, so we need to increase number of stitches for a comfortable fit.
Reset row count to 0 (RC=0);
Keep tension at 7and knit 4 rows;
RC=4:increase 2 stitches, one one each end, and knit 4 rows;
RC=8: increase 2 stitches and knit 4 rows;
RC=12: increase 2 stitches and knit 4 rows;
RC-16: increase 2 stitches and knit 4 rows;
In total, you have knitted 20 rows with 8 increases.
Now we have a total of 70 stitches (35 on each side of zero).
Step 3: Knitting the Heel with Short Rows
To shape the heel:
With the carriage on the right, move half of the needles to the left of zero to the E (non-working) position.
Set the cam lever to H position (this ensures only the working needles are knitted).
Decrease stitches as follows:
Move the first needle opposite the carriage to E position.
Wrap the yarn under the first needle to avoid holes.
Continue until 11 stitches remain in the center.
Attach claw weights to stretch the curled fabric. Otherwise, the stitches can easily fall off the needles.
Start increasing stitches, by bringing the innermost needle on the opposite side of the carriage back to the working position one at a time, until all needles are back in place.
You don’t need to wrap the yarn around the needle this time.
The heel should now have a natural curve.
Step 4: Knitting the Bridge of the Foot
Reset your row counter to zero.
All needles are in working position.
You can keep the cam lever in H position. All needles will be knitted because they are in working position.
Knit 8 rows
RC=8: Decrease 2 stitches (one on each side) and knit 8 rows;
RC=16: Decrease 2 stitches and knit 8 rows;
RC=24: Decrease 2 stitches and knit 8 rows;
RC=32: Decrease 2 stitches.
Now, you have 62 stitches (31 on each side).
Continue knitting without decreases until the row counter reaches 44 rows.
This section covers the distance from the ankle bone to the toe box with negative ease, ensuring a snug fit.
Step 5: Shaping the Toe Box
The toe box is knitted similarly to the heel:
Move left-side needles to E position.
Make sure the cam lever is in H position.
Work short rows until 11 stitches remain.
Begin increasing, moving one needle at a time back to the working position.
When all stitches are back in place, knit one half-row to bring the yarn to the center.
Cut the yarn, leaving a long tail (3x the width of the sock) for stitching.
Insert waste yarn and knit a few rows at tension 7 or 8 to secure the work.
Step 6: Stitching the Sock
Now it’s time to seam the sock together:
Use Kitchener stitch for the toe box for an invisible finish.
Use mattress stitch to seam up the length of the sock, including the folded hem.
Right Sock vs. Left Sock
Since the socks are knitted flat on a machine, they need to be stitched together. To create a mirror image for each foot:
Ensure the seam runs along the inside of the foot for a polished look.
Adjust your starting position so the left and right socks are symmetrical.
When knitting short rows, work the increases and decreases on the right side of zero for the left foot and left side of zero for the right foot.
Final Thoughts
Congratulations! You’ve just knitted a beautifully crafted wool sock with a perfect fit. This technique ensures warmth, comfort, and a professional finish. Happy knitting!
In some cases, a regular e-wrap cast on can be difficult to handle on a flatbed knitting machine. A very large knitting project, for example, may consist of a long chain of e-loops. Attaching a long cast-on comb and the weights to a long row can be challenging when you have one or two very long rows to work with. To ease this task, a provisional anchor fabric comes to the rescue.
An anchor is a temporary piece of fabric made of waste yarn with the cast-on comb and the weights already attached to it. Affixing an e-wrap cast on to a temporary anchor gives you better control when starting a new knitting project. By doing this, you create a smooth transition from a temporary anchor fabric to the working yarn. This setup makes it easier for the carriage to perform its task, helps avoid potential flaws, and gives a uniform and professional look to the finished edge.
Let’s get started!
The Process:
Flatbed Knitting Machine Tutorial with Blue Cat
Step 1. Prepare a temporary anchor swatch with open cast on.
Let’s create a provisional anchor piece using some waste yarn from the stash. As mentioned before, an anchor is a knitted segment long enough to attach a cast on comb and the weights. It is used to pull the actual knitting down and make it easier for the machine to operate.
Set up the working needles and the carriage for an open cast on.
With the carriage on the right, push the needles into the working position (B).
To get started, let’s prepare the needles and the carriage for an open cast on. First, push about 30 needles into the working (B) position. Start with an empty carriage on the right* of the working needles.
* Starting with the carriage on the right side is easier for a right-handed person. If you are left-handed, you can place the carriage on the left and work in the direction opposite of what’s described in this tutorial. Or, you can follow the instructions and change the directions later.
Working needles are in the working position (position B).
Move the alternating needles to a non-working position (A).
Next, use the 1/1 needle pusher to move the alternating needles back to the non-working position (position A).
The alternate needles are in the non-working position (position A).
Set the holding cam lever in the normal position.
Now, let’s prepare the carriage. Make sure, the holding cam lever on the carriage is in the normal position (N for Brother/Knitking and a triangle for Singer/Studio machines.)
Marked with the blue ellipse, the holding cam lever is in N-Position (normal on Knitking machine).
Thread the yarn feeder and the carriage with waste yarn.
With the carriage on the right side of the working needles, thread the waste yarn through the carriage and lock the yarn by moving the yarn feeder lever to the right.
The waste yarn is threaded through the carriage with the yarn feeder lever locked.
Knit the anchor swatch.
Move the carriage to the left for an open cast on.
Now, the needles and the carriage are ready for an open cast on. To create an open cast on, move the carriage from right to left across the working needles. You can find the detailed description in Blue Cat Tutorial for an open cast on.
The first run of the carriage across the working needles creates an open cast on.
Place all needles in the working position (B).
Before you start knitting, push the needles that were in the non-working position (A) back to the working position (B). Use the blunt edge of the needle pusher on the needle butts.
All working needles are in the working position.
Attach cast-on comb to the loops, add claw weights if necessary.
At this point, we attach the cast-on comb to the loops while keeping the working yarn free (in front of the cast-on comb).
Attach the cast-on comb to the loops to create tension. The working yarn (tail on the left) is free. The carriage is on the left side (in the direction of the working yarn).
Knit several rows to make a provisional anchor.
Finally, we can knit several rows to produce the temporary piece of fabric. With the weights attached, this helper fabric works as an anchor for our future knitted creation.
Knit a few rows to create anchor fabric. Keep the cast-on comb and the claw weights attached.
Side Note: I realized that I used the photos from the Open Cast On tutorial using blue yarn. My anchor is actually made of brown yarn in this tutorial. And the blue yarn will be the permanent piece from this point. I will update the photos to avoid confusion in the future.
Disconnect the working yarn from the carriage.
First, you need to disconnect the working end of the waste yarn from the carriage and make sure that it hangs freely. You can attach the yarn to your claw weight to keep it from catching by the carriage.
Step 2. Attach the ravel cord
Remove the waste yarn from the yarn feeder and replace it with a ravel cord.
A ravel cord is a thin, sleek, and durable cable used to affix the permanent work to a temporary anchor. Nylon, silk, or linen can be used for this purpose. Thin mercerized cotton cord worked very well for this project.
Thread the ravel cord through the yarn feeder of the carriage.
Insert the ravel cord into the yarn feeder and lock it.
Knit one row.
Move the carriage from right to left to knit one row with the ravel cord. Only one row is necessary. The ravel cord holds the permanent work to the temporary anchor. The ravel cord will be pulled out later to disconnect the anchor.
Knit one row with the ravel cord.
Disconnect the ravel cord from the carriage.
After one pass, remove the ravel cord from the carriage.
Step 3. E-Wrap Cast On
Set up the working needles and the carriage for the permanent work piece.
Switch the cam lever to the holding position to move the empty carriage from left to right.
At this point, the empty carriage is on the left side of the working needles. You need to move the carriage to the right in preparation for the e-wrap. To do that, switch the cam lever to the holding position and move the needles into their holding position (E on Brother/Knitking, D on Singer/Studio) as shown in the photos below.
Switch holding cam lever to holing position to allow a free carriage pass.Move the needles in the holding position.
Move the carriage from left to right.
Switch the cam lever on the carriage to the normal position.
And now, switch the cam lever back to the normal position. Please see photo below.
Switch the holding cam lever in working (normal) position.
E-wrap the working needles from left to right. Both the ravel cord and the e-wrapped working yarn are on the needles.
Keep the needles in the holding position. It makes it easier to e-wrap the working yarn. In addition, it is easier for the carriage to perform its task at the first raw with the needles in the holding position.
With the carriage on the right, e-wrap your working yarn starting on the left and ending on the right side next to the carriage.
Thread the working yarn through the yarn feeder.
Feed the working yarn into the yarn feeder of the carriage. When you e-wrap the yarn onto the needles, your ravel cord is still on the needles as well. So, you have two layers of loops on your working needles.
E-wrap cast on in front. The ravel cord loops are by the guard pegs.
Knit the work piece. The working fabric is attached to the anchor fabric by the ravel cord. The anchor fabric stabilizes the work.
Now, you can move the carriage from right to left to knit the first row of the actual work. Because the work is already attached to the anchor piece with tension applied to it by the cast-on comb and the weights, the passage by the carriage is very smooth and easy. You can continue knitting your workpiece until it’s done.
The photo below shows the brown anchor piece with a cast-on comb attached and the actual work in blue yarn. The white ravel cord connecting the two is not seen very well, but it’s there.
The blue fabric is the actual work.
For the purpose of this tutorial, I removed the work from the machine and bound it off by hand. I blocked the fabric to keep it from curling. You can easily see the anchor fabric on the bottom, the white ravel cord in the middle, and the actual work fabric in blue.
The prop fabric (brown) was used to support the weights. The ravel cord (white) connects the work fabric (blue) to the supporting anchor fabric.
Side Note:
For some reason, these colors and textures made me think of a corn field with the blue sky in the background.
Hm 🙂
Remove the ravel cord to disconnect the permanent part from the anchor.
The ravel cord can be pulled or cut to free your work.
Cut the or pull the ravel cord to separate the anchor fabric from the main work.
In the photo below, you can compare the cast-off (top) done by hand with the e-wrap cast on (bottom). The manual cast-off looks like a braid while the e-wrap cast on looks like a rope. Both look very nice.
E-wrap edge is on the bottom. See how sharp and crisp it is compared to the bind off on the top.
Below is another view of the e-wrap cast on.
E-wrap cast on with an anchor.
This is the end of our tutorial for e-wrap cast on with an anchor on a flatbed knitting machine.
In machine knitting, e-wrap cast on (aka e-loop) is a type of cast on in which yarn is wrapped around each needle counterclockwise forming loops that are shaped like a lower-case cursive letter “e”.
Unlike open cast on, it gives a secured finished edge to your knitting. E-wrap cast on stands on its own and it gives a neat border to the garment. How to cast on a finished edge using the e-wrap method on a flatbed knitting machine?
Follow this tutorial for step-by-step instructions with photos. Or, see the outline above for a quick review.
Let’s get started by setting up the knitting machine.
The Process:
Step 1. Prepare knitting machine settings for e-wrap cast on.
Before we begin the e-wrap cast on, we need to make sure the knitting machine settings are correct.
Set the working needles to the holding position.
Push the working needles into the holding position (HP). (D-position on Knitmaster, Empisal, Silver, Singer, and Studio; and E-position on Knitking and the modern Brother.) These needles, however, should be engaged in knitting, and not just holding. To accomplish that, make sure the carriage settings are correct.
Blue Cat pushed the working needles all the way out to the holding position.
Set the cam lever on the carriage to the normal position.
Switch the holding cam lever to the normal position to ensure that the machine operates the needles as working and not holding needles. (The cam lever setting is N in Brother/Knitking, triangle in Singer/Studio machines).
Marked with the blue ellipse, the holding cam lever is in N-Position (normal on Knitking machine).Holding cam lever in N-position.
Side note: If you set the lever to the holding position and push out the needles to the holding position, and then move the carriage across the needles (in either direction), the machine will not move these needles back to the working position (B-position).
You can test your machine for the correct settings. Push a few needles all the way out to the holding position. Then change the lever, and move the carriage from side to side across the needles. If the needles will stay in the same holding position, the cam lever is not set correctly. If the needles move to a working position, it means that the carriage is set to a working position. You need the working setting.
Blue Cat checks the setting.
Place the carriage on the opposite side from the starting needle of the e-wrap. The right side is most commonly used.
The carriage can be on either side of the needles. But it should be on the opposite side from the starting needle.
E-wrap begins with the needle furthest from the carriage and moves towards the carriage. If the carriage is on the right, the e-wrap begins on the left and ends on the right. This is easier for a right-handed person. If you place the carriage to the left of the needles, you need to e-wrap the needles from right to left with the working thread facing the carriage.
For the sake of this exercise, park the carriage on the right of the needles.
The carriage is on the right of the needles.
Run a test pass.
Pass the carriage from right to left to make sure the working needles move from the holding to the working position.
Test pass of the carriage from right to left. The carriage moves the needles to the working position.
Now, repeat the test from left to right. Push the needles back to the holding position and run the carriage to the right (back to its original place). The test run should set the needles from the holding to the working position again.
The needles are set in the holding position (all the way out) again to repeat the test in the opposite direction.Test run has set the needles back to the working position.
Now, that the machine is set, we can start e-wrapping the needles.
Step 2. E-wrap the working needles starting with a slip knot on the furthest needle from the carriage
Begin with a slip knot the size of an individual loop.
The first loop is a slip knot starting on the left when the carriage is to the right of the working needles.
The yarn is wrapped counterclockwise around the next needle to the right, forming a small cursive letter “e”.The yarn is wrapped counterclockwise around the next needle to the right, forming a small cursive letter “e”.Continue wrapping each needle keeping the tension low and even.All working needles are e-wrapped in this photo.
The tension of the e-loops should be not too tight, but not too loose either. If it’s too tight, the machine may have difficulty knitting these loops. If the tension is too loose, the edge of your work will look uneven and messy. It may take some practice to achieve the right tension.
To avoid too much tension of the working yarn when you are making the loops, you can slip the yarn through the clip of the tension unit as shown in the photo below.
I pinched the yarn in the clip to keep it loose.Blue Cat check: All working needles are e-wrapped from left to right with relatively loose and equal tension. The needles are in the holding position. The loops are pushed all the way back. The carriage is on the right.The e-loops are pushed all the way back on the working needles.
Step 3. Thread the carriage with the working yarn.
The next step is to take the working yarn and thread it through the carriage as shown in the photos below.
The working yarn is threaded through the carriage. It is still loose in this photo.Weeee! Blue Cat is demonstrating how the working yarn is threaded.
Step 4. Move the carriage from right to left.
The carriage is on the move from right to left.The first row is made. The purl side of the work is facing you.
Step 5. Attach the cast-on comb and the weights to the first row of stitches.
At this point, you can attach the cast-on comb and weights to the newly-made stitches. But, you may find it a little difficult to do so because there isn’t enough length of the knitted fabric. To make it easier, you can run the carriage from left to right to gain more length.
To make sure that the machine knits properly without the weights, it’s best to push the working needles all the way out to the holding position again. The stitches (loops) should be pushed all the way back.
I push a few needles at a time while using my left hand to keep the stitches in the back.All working needles are out in the holding position now with all stitches in the back as far as they can go.
Move the carriage across the working needles once or twice more. When the fabric is long enough, you can attach the cast-on comb and the weights.
The cast-on combs and the weights are attached.
Step 6. Knit your project.
You can knit your project now.
The photo below shows the e-wrap border. It’s the top border of this small knitting project. When you knit on the machine, the e-wrap border is at the bottom of your work. I turned it upside-down for a better view. The opposite edge has free loops.
The top border is made using the e-wrap method.Blue Cat check
Open cast on is the type of cast on that produces unfastened stitches that will unravel whenever possible. This type of stitch is also known as live or open stitch. Open cast on is also known as provisional or invisible cast on.
The Uses of an Open Cast On.
So, open, invisible, or provisional cast on creates live or open stitches. This cast on has many uses.
What is the purpose of an open cast on?
It provides an invisible seam
After you are done knitting one part of your project with an open cast on, you then bind it off. Next, you can load the live stitches back onto the machine with the knitting turned upside-down. The intent is to start knitting in the opposite direction. Thus, you create an invisible seam with an intriguing pattern radiating in two directions.
By doing that, you can knit a scarf in two directions starting from the middle. Or, you can make anything that folds. For example, a stocking cap or socks, a bag or purse, toys, a double-knit fabric, and so on.
You can also use these open stitches to hem a garment using a ribbing machine or by hand.
It allows making a disposable anchor
An anchor is a piece of provisional fabric knitted from waste yarn. And it is used to attach permanent yarn. Later, the anchor is removed to give a very neat and professional appeal to the remaining edge.
It saves time for making a temporary sample swatch
One example is making a new pattern and needing to calculate the number of stitches and rows for the size. Another example is when you are unsure if you have enough yarn for a project. In both cases, you can quickly load the needles with an open cast on. Then, knit a sample swatch and cast it off. After you block it you can measure the resulting piece.
These are just a few applications of the provisional cast on. I am sure, you can come up with many other creative uses!
So, how do you do an open cast on? Let’s get started.
The Process:
This tutorial explains step by step how to do an open cast on. Use the outline above if you know how to do it and only need to review the method. It recaps every step of the process. You can click on each step to see the detailed explanation and photos.
Do you want to see the entire process? Then, read on!
Step 1. Prepare the tension unit.
Thread the yarn through the tension unit.
Thread the yarn according to your machine user manual. The diagram below demonstrates the steps for my Knitking machine. Knitking is very similar to Brother.
Thread the yarn through the rear yarn guide.
Pass it between the disks from the back.
Thread through the front yarn guide.
Thread into the take-up spring eyelet.
Clip it in the yarn clip.
Diagram for threading yarn on Knitking machine
Adjust tension for yarn thickness.
Usually, the tension is higher for thick yarn and lower for fine yarn. The medium-weight yarn tension is somewhere in the middle. Adjust the yarn tension. Please refer to your machine manual for guidance.
The yarn tension unit is loaded. And the tension is set. Doesn’t it look elegant?
Upon setting the tension, you need to prepare the needles for an open cast on.
Step 2. Prepare the needles for an open cast on.
A Technical Note about Needles and their Positions (for Beginners).
The Needles . . .
A knitting machine needle has five parts: hook, latch, stem, butt, and shank (please see the diagram below).
Knitting machine needle diagram.
The folded knobs you see closer to the middle of the photo below are the butts. You will be using them to push the needles into their positions. It will become more clear very soon.
The needle butts are used for repositioning the needles.
. . . and the needle positions
Modern knitting machines have four positions:
Non-working position (NWP) does not knit.
Working position (WP) knits stocking stitch.
Upper working position (UWP) is used for patterns.
Holding position (HP) does not knit when the holding lever is on.
Different models used different letter denominations for the positions.
Knitmaster, Empisal, Silver, Singer, and Studio, use A, B, C, D, respectively.
Brother (KH830 and higher) and Knitking use A, B, D, and E, respectively.
Only two positions are used for an open cast on — working and non-working positions.
Move selected needles to the working position (B) and align them using the carriage.
Chose approximately 30 needles to use for knitting your practice swatch. They are referred to as working needles. Use the flat side of the needle pusher and the needle butts to move them one step forward into the working position.
The holding cam lever on the carriage is in the normal position (N on Brother/Knitking or triangle on Singer/Studio).
Marked with a blue ellipse, the holding cam lever is in the normal position.Close-up of the holding cam lever in normal position (N).
Next, run the carriage across the needles a couple of times to align them. The position of the carriage relative to the needles is not important at this point. It can be on the right or left side of the working needles.
The needles are aligned in the working position with the K-carriage on the left.
Move the alternating needles back to the non-working position with a 1/1 needle pusher.
The next step is to move every other needle back to the non-working position (A).
A 1/1 needle pusher is used to push every other needle back into the working position.
Blue Cat is holding the needle pusher to demonstrate how it moves the needles.
Blue Cat is helping move the alternating needles back to non-working position.
The picture below shows the selected needles alternating between the working (B) and non-working (A) positions.
Position A is a holding place for the needles. Needles in this position (in the back) will not be involved in the knitting process. B-position is the working position (in front).
Align the needles by moving the carriage with the holding cam lever in the normal position. Leave the carriage on the right.
At this point, the needles are in place and the holding cam lever stays in the normal position. The next step is to move the carriage across the needles a few times. This time, you need to park the carriage on the right of the working needles.
Step 3. Prepare the carriage for the open cast on.
The carriage and the needles are in position for the cast on. The cam lever is in the normal position. The final step is to thread the carriage.
Thread the yarn through yarn feeder A of the carriage
Now you will need to thread the yarn through the carriage. It is the carriage used for a stocking stitch.
How to thread the yarn through the feeder of the carriage (for Beginners).
Open the yarn feeder of the carriage by pushing the lever to the left.
Remove the yarn from the yarn clip on the tension unit.
Take the yarn through the yarn feeder A of the carriage.
Move the lever back to close the yarn feeder while holding the yarn in the left hand.
Voila! You are ready! But don’t let go of the yarn just yet!
Carriage is prepared for knitting.
Step 4. Cast the yarn on the needles using an open cast on.
Move the carriage from right to left until you hear a click.
Still holding the yarn with your left hand, move the carriage from right to left across all working needles. You can let go of the yarn when you feel the needles catch it.
After the carriage has been moved to the left, the needles in the working position should have the yarn wrapped around them as shown in the photo below.
The yarn is hooked on the needles in a working position (B). The alternating needles are still in the non-working position (A).
This is what it looks like from a different angle:
Step 5. Prepare needles for knitting.
Attach a cast-on comb to the loops.
Now, we use a cast-on comb to add tension to the loops.
Blue Cat introducing the cast-on comb.
I chose the short cast-on comb for this small exercise.
I am using a short cast-on comb for this small project.
Hook the cast-on comb over the loops and pull it down lightly.
Cast-on comb is attached to the loops.
Make sure that the working yarn connected to the carriage (on the left) is not attached to the cast-on comb.
The working yarn on the left is free.
You should be able to pull the working yarn toward you as shown in the photo below.
The working yarn can be pulled forward easily.
Push the remaining needles from the non-working to the working position.
There is one more step to take before the machine is prepared for knitting. Now, we need to use the flat side of the needle pusher to return the needles from position A back to position B.
All working needles are in working position now (position B). You are ready to move the carriage from left to right.
Step 6. Move the carriage from left to right and continue knitting.
Move the carriage to the right clearing the knitting before you move it back in the other direction. You will hear a clicking sound at the end of each row.
The first row is made with the carriage on the right side.
Now, we are ready to knit our project. Move the carriage back and forth making sure that the carriage clears the rows. But don’t move the carriage too far passed the knitting.
Step 7. Remove the knitting while holding the cast-on comb.
After a few rows are knitted, you will see the purl side of the project facing you. You can remove your knitting when you are satisfied with the number of rows you’ve made. This is called cast-off.
To cast off, remove the yarn from the yarn feeder A of the carriage. Push the yarn feeder lever to the left and move the yarn downward. And finally, move the empty carriage over the work to the other side.* When you do that, your knitting piece will disconnect from the needles.
*Important: To prevent your knitting from falling, make sure that you hold the cast-on comb as you move the carriage.
The carriage is empty. You can remove your work from the machine.The working yarn is not in the carriage. The empty carriage is ready to move to the left and disconnect the practice swatch.
Congratulations! You have completed the Open Cast On Tutorial!
